JUST OVER the border from Bulgaria, this compact Ottoman city is packed with history, and boasts one of the world’s greatest mosques.
On my first trip to Turkey, I didn't know about Edirne until we'd left Istanbul and were heading in the other direction.
Second time in Turkey jus a few days in Istanbul with Dad, after seeing parts of Greece.
The historic city is home to the greatest work by one of history's greatest architects, the Ottoman era Sinan, who also built the Sultan Ahmet mosque in Istanbul.
We were essentially in Edirne to see one thing: the 16th-century Selimiye Mosque.
We detoured from the Caucasus to Bulgaria, where six days was about five too many, as Edirne is just over the border inside Turkiye.
Geographically, this part of Turkiye is in Europe, but culturally, this was a world away. It was warm, friendly, welcoming: I felt like I was in Asia again.
Old men lingered over tea for hours.
Bazaars spilt out into the street, the start of one merging with the end of another.
The distinctive, colourful, Turkish ceramics beckoned.
Old wooden homes were still lived in by families, not (all) converted to boutique B&Bs.
The azaan- call to prayer- and minarets filled the air. The grand Uc Serfeli Mosque has all different minaret designs, hence the name "Three Balconies Mosque."
With its classic arched courtyard and high domed interior, it would be considered a major achievement, if not for the Selimiye Mosque.
On our third trip to Turkiye, after an expensive 6 day detour, the great architect Sinan's 400 year old masterpiece Selimiye......was closed for restoration!
It was a multi-year project, due to finish just months later. This bakery is housed in a Sinan-deisgned hammam, and that was closed for restoration, too!
But, as often happens in the Middle East, the bakers welcomed us in, let us get in the way taking photos, and gave us a bag of bread to take away.
Predating Selimiye, the 15th century Uc Serefeli Mosque has high, ornate domes, and a relaxing garden tea house.
Rubbing shoulders with the bazaars and kebaberies is another Ottoman mosque, Eski Ulu Cami (Old Mosuqe).
The cavernous structure has 9 domes supported by 4 immense columns, and is decorated with Islamic calligraphy. A second, taller minaret was added later in the 15th century.
Centuries ago, Edirne and other Ottoman cities were far more multi-cultural than today. While the city's Great Synagogue still functions, there are barely a handful of Jews remaining.
Edirne is great for wandering, with at least two vast caravanserai, many hammans, and quiet neighbourhoods full of bakeries, tea shops, and street markets.
A couple of kms north, through winding residential streets, the Muradiye Mosque sits along on top of a small hill.
Opened in 1435, it is known for its ornate tile-work.
Some of the walls remain in their original condition. The imam is a friendly chap, who gave us some delicious lokum (Turkish delight).
A small gang of chatty kids kept us company- otherwise there were no visitors.
Turkiye remains a wonderful country, full of flavour, history, incredible architecture and sights, and despite being ruled by a tyrant, is still friendly.
And even though it was heart-breaking to discover Selimiye was closed, 3 days in Edirne was a refreshing way to end a long jaunt.