OFF the south-west coast of the peninsula, Jeju may be the most famous tourist place in South Korea. The hiking there was pretty good, but most people go for the beaches.
Less famous, but quite interesting, is the port city which serves Jeju, Mokpo. And when you can’t be bothered with another ferry, Gwangju and Jeonju are just a short hop and a skip by plane and bus.
Down in South Korea's south-east, the island of Jeju is probably the country's most famous tourist spot.
Unless you're flying, there's good chance you'll be visiting the somewhat grubby fishing town of Mokpo.
But that is in no way a bad thing. Mokpo has plenty to offer.
Mokpo doesn't get glammed up for the tourist dollar. There's a few attractions around the hill and waterfront, but deep down, it's a working town.
Fishing is still the life-blood of the town, with boats and nets and crates and ice and all the usual paraphernalia about.
The city was an important maritime port centuries ago.
The free Maritime Museum is absolutely worth the time, with a fascinating selection of artifacts and wares from massive old wrecks.
Across the road, is the Natural History Museum.
Both museums can be seen if a few hours.
Sihwa Alley is an old working-class neighbourhood which has seen better days, but attracts tourists with its murals and links to those awful Korean dramas.
The area is worth an hour or so of wandering.....
...and can be combined with a trip -on foot or by cable car- up and down Yudalsan hill.
Millions visit Jeju every year, for its beaches, seafood, markets, oddball museums and nature.
Hikers head here for the great hills, with hikes from hours to days.
There is a network of trails and a network of hikers covering the island. With Korea's U-beaut transport apps, getting there and back is so easy, too.
When you are done with the hills for the day, back on low ground, there's plenty of good stuff to eat in the markets and restaurants.
Most Korean towns and cities have a strong steet food culture.
And surprisingly, Korea also does some of the best ham & cheese toasties I have had.
Our next stop from Jeju was the historic city of Jeonju, a short flight and bus ride away.
Like other old cities in Korea, there is a tight warren of old houses and shops, known as "hanuk".
Centuries old temples, halls and pavilions are scattered about.
Taejo-ro is a long street through the old town, filled with eateries and tourist tat.
There you will find the complex of buildings known as Gyeonggyijeon, from the Joseon Dynasty.
Expect to see couples and families and groups of girls kitted out in traditional Korean garb.
Of the old cities- Andong, Jeonju, Gyeongju- I would struggle to pick a favourite. They did all start to blend.
There are several other temple and hanuk areas just a short stroll from Taejo-ro, all quieter, some very picturesque.
Some of the nearby hills have decent hikes, good views, but some have tonnes of tourists, too.
Strolling through the old town turns up murals and tea shops and traditional gardens here and there.
One of the most impressive buildings is the old government hall, Gaeksa, slightly away from the main tourist drag.
It's an oasis of calm between the tourist parts, and just away from the modern, entertainment and shopping district.....
...which wouldn't be complete with over-sized animal characters.
For most visitors, one of the old, historic cities would be enough, and Jeonju's central location would make it a good choice.