KAKHETI is the first region you’ll enter, if coming from Azerbaijan. If not, it’s only a couple of hours from the capital, Tblisi. As well as history, scenery and food, this is Georgia’s wine capital. Indeed wine was first made here, before even the Greeks.
Kakheti is Georgia's south east, bordering Chechnya/Russia, and Azerbaijan.
Most visitors to Georgia will come here for two of its principal towns, Sighnaghi and Telavi, and because its Georgia's best wine region.
Entering from Azerbaijan, we stopped at the first town, Lagodheki, so we could enjoy a couple of sunny days walking in the nearby forests.
Before the sun came out, we'd discovered the food was good, the serves huge, and strangers would pop a glass or two of wine at your table without warning.
The cobbled streets of Sighnaghi are busy with tourists in the day time, but quieten down after dark. There's a number of very old churches in the city walls, but also countless wineries. Almost every family makes wine.
For a change from churches and wineries, less than 10kms away, Sunday's Bodbiskhevi Bazaar is worth investigating.
Local produce dominates. There's clothes and shoes and packaged foods and household stuff, and would you believe, wine.
And cheese. Sheds full of cheese, which won't surprise anyone who has been in Georgia more than half a day.
Georgians, I thought, were quiet reserved, but like anywhere, there were quite a few people here keen for a chat and a pic.
A pleasant stroll out of Sighnaghi, Monastery of St. Nino at Bodbe was built in 9th century, but was extensively remodelled in 17th century. It's location and rose garden are quite pretty.
Days and nights in town revolve around eating too much, drinking wine and chacha, having a stickey beak in a church or two, more food and wine.
A short bus ride away, Telavi is not dissimilar to Sighnaghi- churches, wine, cheese, food, views. We found it more interesting, more to do, better food.
Larger than Sighnaghi, it has a decent sized bazaar, with the usual Caucasus treats.
And if you are taking any day-trips, you'll probably be passing by anyway, as it merges with the bus station.
Northwest of town is the magnificent and historical 11th century Alaverdi Monastery, which grows its own wine grapes. Closed for renos, but the views were good.
In the same direction, less grand but equally historical is the Ikalto Monastery, founded by Saint Zenon, one of the 13 Assyrian Fathers, in the late 6th century.
In the other direction, and a good distance from the main road, the Nekresi Monastery sits high on a hill with excellent views. The walk in was actually ok- picking blackberries as we went.
Half way back to town, stop at Gremi, for the monastery and fort. There are some minor ruins and a small but interesting museum.
Capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti in the 16th and 17th centuries, Gremi functioned as a lively Silk Road trading town, Persia's Shah Abbas I razed it to the ground in 1615.
After seeing the castle, we experienced some Georgian hospitality. A car stopped and offered us a ride to Telavi, and we weren't even hitching! Sadly, it wasn't this classic Soviet era beauty.
Another of Georgia's winners is food, and Telavi was really good. Quality restaurants were not pricey or touristy. These are pkhali, chopped and minced vegetables- eggplant, spinach, beans, beets, mixed with ground walnuts, vinegar, onions, garlic, and herbs.
The historical focus of Telavi is the Palace of Erekle II, which sits in the centre of town.
There have been settlements here since the Bronze Age, and the small but interesting museum on the palace grounds has artifacts from various stages of the city's history.
Telavi rose to prominence from the 10th to 13th centuries.
The palace itself dates from the mid 1600s.
A very short ride outside town is the city's grandest estate, of Aleksandre Chavchavadze, a poet, translator, military figure, businessman. Spend an hour or three wandering and sampling their wines.
After that, pop round the corner to Shumi Georgian Wine Museum for the definitive history of Georgian wine. There are hundreds of varieties, and some vines are centuries old.
Fine old homes are found in the city centre, particularly in Nadikvari and Cholokashvili Street.
There are also several famous old churches, some other less well know or preserved, and city walls leading along the hills.
From the city's high points, you'll see the snow-capped Greater Caucasus Mountains, sweeping along the northern edge of the Alazani Valley. Beyond the range lie the Russian republics of Dagestan and Chechnya.
Culturally distinct from the rest of Kakheti, the Pankisi valley became a haven for Chechen refugees.
The kist people are Muslim, and are related to the Chechens. Sadly, this beautiful area developed a reputation for crime and other problems.
The small town of Jokolo sits on the Alazani river. Here, community based tourism has been established by one woman, Nazy Dakishvili, founder of Nazy’s Guest House.
She has restored the image of the area, almost single-handedly. Her spotless guesthouse (not picture), surrounded by gardens, serves incredible meals, and offers guests experiences like music, poetry, dance, cooking, weaving.
There are a number of reasonably well marked hikes nearby, a couple of historic forts. It's the kind of place where strangers give you a lift, then ask you in for tea and a meal.
Nazy serves a huge breakfast, most of which comes from her own garden. And after a day of hiking, she'll serve you an even bigger dinner.