KANCHANABURI. To most people, it means the Bridge Over The River Kwai, the infamous death railway and POW camps. Those are no doubt important parts of Kanchanaburi, but so much more lies beyond the famed railway bridge.
Mountainous and forested, with national parks seemingly around every bend. Border towns, waterfalls, holiday towns and ethnic divesrity. Kanchanaburi is worth exploring more.
Kanchanaburi Province begins about 120kms from Bangkok. The main highway runs NW for 270km to Three Pagoda Pass.
It shares about 300kms of border with Burma, and contains a large number of national parks, waterfalls, mountains, rural twns and holiday destinations.
The Western Forest Complex, 17 parks and sanctuaries which are home to Thailand strongest tiger population, runs through the province.
The River Kwai bridge, built by POWs is the most famous place in Kanchanaburi. However, a 100km further, the Hellfire Pass Museum, on the sight of POW camps is by far the best memorial.
The daily train from Bangkok to Nam Tok is wonderfully scenic. Beyond Nam Tok, both public transport and hitching are good.
Getting to some places require some planning, or a vehicle.
Tiny Pilok is one that needs some planning.
From Kan'buri, you'll need to get to Thong Pha Phum, easy enough, and catch one of the infrequent morning songthaew.
The former tin-mining town is popular with Thai tourists.
As well as an small old school village feel, they come for the mountain air and blanketing mists.
Seeing the town doesn't take long at all. With a vehicle, you could visit Auny Glyn, an Australian of 40-odd year residence, running a guesthouse and bakery 10km from own.
There's a temple or two, worth a visit for the views and some pictures.
Detritus from the former tin mines sit in a park next to the reservoir.
Some of the walks and view points nearest the border are closed, but several other good hikes are open.
If you miss the pick-ups, walk and hitch to Chokkradin Falls, about 8km from town.
The falls are quite spectacular. The walk from the main road is maybe 2km. There is camping at another section of the park, further from Pilok.
Sleepy, cold, and interesting, Pilok really is quie unlike any place in Thailand.
A motorcycle opens up more possibilities, like taking an absolute goat track through the backblocks to Khuean Srinagarindra National Park.
Going down the highway and via Erawan just wouldn't cut it. And I would not have found this creepily abandoned resort where all the rooms where fruit shaped.
We stopped at afew falls on the way, enjoyed stupendous mountain views, and bashed some appalling tracks knee deep in weeds. On a scooter.
But even I woudn't do this.
Huai Mae Khamin Waterfall is the star of the park, with several falls and pools for swimming under the rainforest cover.
A popular but spacious camp ground sits a minute's walk from the falls. BYO or rent a tent.
The food stalls would not have been out of place in a small town.
Camping in Thailand is so under-rated.
Huai Mae Khamin is just upriver Erawan Falls, Thailand's most famous waterfall. Swimming, or dipping, in Huai Mae Khamin never felt crowded.
Surprisingly few farang venture beyond Kanchanaburi city or Erawan Falls. Their loss is your gain.