THREE DAYS was enough to captivate British poet and writer, Rudyard Kipling, who was supposedly so transfixed by the beauty of lady at the steps of “the old Moulmein pagoda”, he remembered little of the magnificent temple.
The temple had already stood a thousand years by then, and various Mon kings had built the city into a wealthy trading port. Britain captured it for its first capital, before moving on to Yangon and Mandalay.
Kyaikthanlan Pagoda is outstanding, but just one part of this pleasant, easy-going riverside city.

With a history dating back around 600 years, Mawlamyine has at times been a major power in South East Asia's shifting fortunes.

But the most famous building, dominating the city from all around, is Kyaikthanlan Paya, which caught the eye of famed Brit, Rudyard Kipling.

Indian influenced food, like these paper thin dosa, is often eaten as a snack in the streets of Mawlamyine.

Down the backstreets, away from the glittering pagodas and faded relics, the average citizen enjoys a more modest standard of living.

An uncomfortable pick-up ride and a uphill walk north, Nwa La Bo Pagoda makes for a good day out in the hills.

The setting of the pagoda looks down over the hills, and the highlight, the balancing stupa defies logic and building codes.

The small market in the town of Kyon Ka, where the pick ups drop you at the base of the hill, is worth a wander for its quirky goods and a quick lunch.

But there are no doubts about the star of Mawlamyine, Kyaikthanlan Paya, the glittering jewel atop the town.

Kipling wrote "By the old Moulmein Pagoda, lookin' lazy at the sea,
There's a Burma girl a-settin', and I know she thinks o' me;"

It was originally erected in 875 A.D. during the reign of King Mutpi Raja, and successively enlarged over the centuries.

34 small pagodas called Zediyan surroud the main pagoda, and a large bell bears on ancient Mon inscription.

Buddhists come throughout the day making merit. It is easy for the visitor to while away the time watching.

A large covered walkway goes down to the street. Several other pagodas are in the immediate area, including Mahamuni Paya and U Zina.

At the south-west base of the pagoda grounds, is Yadanabonmyint Monastery, also called Queen Sein Don's Monastery.

King Mindon Min's fourth ranked wife, Sein Don Mibaya oversaw contruction in the late 1880s, and it is distinctively Mon in design.

The monastery's long arched walkway is an escape from the heat. Despite its royal connection, the monastery is struggling to be maintained.

A short punt ride across the Thanlyin River takes you to Bilu Kyun, an island similar in size to Singapore, but with a few less shopping centres.

Bilu is flat, very scenic and lacking in development. Traditional handicrafts are made in time honoured ways .Kick-boxing matches happen during the April Thingyan (New Year) water festival. That would be cool!