SVANETI in the northwest, and Mtskheta in the north are as far as you can go without entering Russia. Truly beautiful, and culturally a world away, the small, mountain towns offer some of the best of Georgia.
These two mountain regions are geographically separated, with Mtskheta being directly north of Tblisi, on the Russian border.
Further away on the north-west, and accessed either via Kutaisi or Zugdigi, is the Svaneti region.
Stepsminda sit at 1700m ASL, and is surrounded by peaks reaching over 5000m.
Access is not year round, with winter snow closing roads, and residents moving to lower ground.
With the very obvious caveats, a visitor can hike as much or as little as he likes. There are restrictions and permits for some border areas, though.
Overlooking the town of Kazbegi is the Gergeti Trinity Church, built in the 14th century.
While a sealed road now takes pilgrims to the top, the walk there is not particularly challenging.
The trail begins in the ancient village of Gergeti, passes some ancient forts and towers, and takes 2-3 hours up.
With a population of less than 2000, there's not more than a handful of places to eat. The accommodation isn't bad and it is worth staying for a few days.
The stone village of Pansheti is at the same altitude as Stepsminda. It has a number of stone watch towers clinging to the hills, and passes an old pool.
These stone heads near the village of Sno aren't actually old, but make for a good half day walk, surrounded by farms and snow-capped ranges.
There's no direct connection to Mestia, so you'll have to head back to Tblisi. Buses also run from Kutaisi and Zugdigi in the west.
Hiking options abound, but the Cross Over Mestia is a tough but good one. I pulled the plug not far short of the glacier, which is the goal for many hikers.
The town of Mestia itself has a few Svan towers, the defensive stone structures known locally as Svanuri Koshki.
With time and/or transport, there are many places worth visiting in the area, from waterfalls to ancient villages and forts. The best source of all Georgia travel is https://wander-lush.org/georgia-travel-guide/
The iconic towers are the chief attraction of nearby Ushguli.
A daily van (or 3) runs from Mestia and back, and is priced to squeeze tourist balls. Still, what you gonna do?
It is the best place to see the svan towers, and wander through the stone village. Despite the tourist trade, villagers remain friendly and welcoming.
The towers here were built between the 9th and 13th centuries, although people may have been building them for even longer. There are reportedly about 3000 in the region.
At 2100m ASL, this is one of Europe's highest inhabited villages.
There are a few places to stay in Ushguli, and the van tickets do allow for return on another day.