TORAJA. For many, the highlight of Sulawesi, which is itself one of Indonesia most diverse destinations. Rantepao is the biggest, maybe only, town in Toraja, but it only takes a few kms to leave the “city” behind. In fact, often the traditional, country-village culture pushes away the modern world.
Sulawesi is the most remarkable part of Indonesia I have been to.
It's an island of incredible natural beauty.
Diverse cultures are spread through the island.
The most remarkable part of this remarkable island is Toraja, of which Rantepao is the principle town.
Within a dozen kms of Rantepao are scores of villages where the fascinating Toraja culture reveals itself.
Burial sites are found in caves and hillsides throughout Toraja.
Funerals are the central, all-important event in Toraja life.
We were lucky enough to witness a funeral taking place right in the town itself.
Family had come from all over Indonesia and overseas, bringing perhaps 200+ people.
Everyone dresses in black for the multi-day occasion.
We were invited to sit in near the centre of the "rante" (ceremonial ground) and treated not as intruders, but as guests.
Toraja funerals cater for 100s, costing tens of thousands of dollars. As we may save for a house or wedding, Toraja save for funerals.
There were many ritauls throughout he day we attended, including ceremonial pounding of rice.
Several times these choral singers enlivened proceedings.
Musicians lead the family through the funeral grounds.
A shaman-like figure preceded by a buffalo was followed by the younger family members past mourners.
My guess is that he is scaring away the evil spirits.
The most incredible part of the day was seeing the buffalo sacrificed, with practiced dexterity.
Large, white-hued buffalo sell for tens of thousands of dollars.
The butchering and cooking takes places in the centre of the grounds.
Only 1 or a few of the buffalo seen will be sacrificed, but dozens of pigs may be killed and cooked.
All the while, rituals and ceremony continue throughout the many days.
The buffalo horns which adorn the front of a traditional "tongonkan" house attest to its owners wealth and status.
To see the importance of buffalo to Toraja culture, pop in to the Bolu Market on a Saturday. Thousands of buffalo worth millions of dollars are on show.
And for a couple of dollars, the nearby warung offer some delicious buffalo soup.
The next biggest product in Toraja is its world famous coffee, also of course sold at Bolu.
While it lacks the shock value of Tomohon's Extreme Market, Bolu is bigger and has more variety.
A long walk or a short ride through some beautiful countryside takes you to some Toraja burial sites.
"Burial" is probably not the correct word, as Toraja never inter their deceased in the ground, as the earth is where food comes from.
Coffins are placed on the side of hills, or sometimes in chambers dug into the hills.
Caves are also used as a final resting place.
"Tau tau" effigies of the deceased and their family are placed at the graves to deter evil wishers.
Tampong Allo has a large number of old tau-tau, which are sometimes the target of grave robbers.
Returning from Tampong Allo, we came across a village of graves, adorned with houses for the deceased. Many Japanese live in smaller houses than these.
Like most Indonesians, the Toraja are friendly, welcoming and quick to laugh.
If you enjoy feeling like you've entered another world, not another country, visit Toraja.