DOWN near Iran, squeezed between two countries quiet hostile to it, come for two of Armenia’s most important and awesome places.
Much like the rest of Armenia, much like the rest of the Caucasus, Armenia's south is mountains and monasteries.
One stop was in Goris, ringed by mountains and valleys right on the edge of town.
The other stop was Yeghegnadzor, a likable little town with parks and backyards full of fruit trees.
Just 150km from Iran and 25 from Azerbaijan, Goris is the staging point for one of Armenia's greatest sites, Tatev monastery.
Better yet, access to Tatev is by the spectacular 5km, cable car, the world's longest, which crosses the deep valleys.
Built in 9th century, Tatev hosted one of the most important Armenian medieval universities, the University of Tatev, which contributed to the advancement of science, religion and philosophy, reproduction of books and development of miniature painting.
Commanding views across the gorges of the Vorotan River, the complex has suffered from earthquakes and invasions by Seljuks, Mongols, Uzbeks and more.
It's worth investing a few hours in hiking back towards. The views and forest are good and the route goes by the sparsely visited Great Hermitage Of Tatev.
Built in the 1660s to replace a similar complex damaged by earthquake, it was once a centre of religious study.
Built with thick, defensive walls, it is a warren of interconnected hallways and rooms.
One source said it once housed 700 people. I reckon they'd have been pretty crowded, but there is no denying its importance or its superbly isolated serenity.
The other great site of southern Armenia is Noravank, 23km from Yeghagnazdor.
Founded in 1105 by Bishop Hovhannes, the complex includes the church of S. Karapet, S. Grigor chapel with a vaulted hall, and the church of S. Astvatsatsin.
The grandest structure is Surb Astvatsatsin, sometimes also called Burtelashen, after its financier, Prince Burtel Orbelian. Completed in 1339, it is the final work of master designer, sculptor and miniaturist Momik. His khachkar (tomb) is found near the church.
The present structures are from the 13th and 14th centuries, and are known for their intricate stone works.
It is popular with both pilgrims and tourists, and generally regarded as one of Armenia's two most important places.
Located deep along a scenic gorge, public transport finishes on the main road 8km away.
Fortunately, it's worth taking the time to hike at least one way, and locals are happy to offer a lift as well.
Hiking on the other side of Yeghegnadzor town is even better.
Occasional mini-buses take you to Vernashan, from where the trail up to Spitakavor begins.
Likewise, Goris also has some good, accessible trails to explore.
The cliffs of Khndzoresk are visible from Goris, and are full of cave churches and houses, and more substantial stone ruins.
Quite a few locals drive to near this bridge, cross and have a quick squizz, but it is worth starting at the top and walking down and around.
And like most of Armenia, family guest houses and family run restaurants mean the only roughing it will be on the hike.