THE CAPITAL And the international airport, Thimpu and Paro in Bhutan’s west are gateways to some of Bhutan’s most important monasteries and popular hikes.
While there is land border access from India, most visitors will fly into Paro, near the capital, Thimpu. The flight provides views of the Himalayas, including Everest.
As such, Thimpu is likely to be your first taste of Bhutan, or last. And the food is good- chili is not a condiment, just another vegetable!
Modern apartments are sprouting up, but all buildings, even these must incorporate traditional design.
Our accommodation was a family run guest-house, with home-cooked and home grown food.
The market(s?) aren't grand bustling affairs, but there are a few interesting products to see, like these dry cheese blocks, and local vegetables.
Almost all Bhutanese still wear traditional dress on a daily basis. This "gho" on display at the National Textile Museum belong to a former king.
The museum shows the history and process of tradational weaving, with examples from all across the country. It is housed in the former Thai Embassy building.
There are a number of traditional workshops where visitors can watch artists at work.
Masks are an essential element of Bhutanese culture. These two are working on a "mandala" ceiling ornament, destined for Australia.
We weren't able to see a competition, but watched traditional archers practice at the national stadium.
One place visitors will certainly be taken is Memorial Chorten, a Buddhist stupa where city folk come daily to perform prayer rituals.
It is neither large nor old, but there is a constant flow of people, circumambulating, lighting candles, fingering prayer beads as the sit and chat.
We witnessed several foreigners getting in people's faces or sneaking long shot pictures of people, many of whom clearly didn't appreciate it. Don't be that person.
Completed after 10 years in 2015, Dordenma Buddhist stupa is one of the largest in the world, and contains 100,000 8-inch-tall and 25,000 12-inch-tall gilded bronze Buddhas. The views are not shabby, either.
Beyond the city are more monasteries and stupa with long history. Along the way are many roadside shrines covered with 1000s of small Buddha icons.
Perched on a 3,200-meter hillock, Chagri monastery overlooks the north end of the Thimphu valley. Founded in 1620, it is the oldest institution in Bhutan by Ngawang Namgyal, the first Zhabdrung Rinpoche and the founder of modern Bhutan.
Designed with defence in mind, the site is nearly unassailable, with anyone approaching the monastery required to take a long and meandering route up the hillside. These days, only the last hour or so is on foot.
One of the best day hikes in Bhutan is up the Lungchutse Lhakhang trail, from the Dochu La pass and its 108 stupas.
The 3-4 hour hike goes through the thick forest of Hemlock, Fir, Rhododendrons, and junipers, to the 18th century monastery at the top.
Spectacular 360 degree views of many 7000m+ Himalayan giants is your reward...unless it gets snowed out. The snow lined forests were nice though.
Another popular and interesting temple is Chime Lhakhang, or Divine Madman temple.
The walk in is largely flat, provided good views of farming villages, and a chance to pick up a souvenir phallus as well.
Phallus are a fertility symbol, and seemed to be more prominent in the west, where they adorned everything from houses to restaurants to vehicles and more.
Bhutan's west, near Paro and Thimpu contains some excellent hiking and some of the country's most revered temples and monasteries. Views are pretty good, too.
The Ha valley, in Paro's backyard, is the gateway to the cliffside Kila Nunnery and the famed Tiger Temple, also clinging precariously to the mountains.
Hiking to the Kila Nunnery was quite hard going, but rewards include seeing the world's third highest mountain, Kanchenjunga (8586m).
This peak on the trail to Kila Nunnery is a sky burial ground, where the deceased a left exposed to the elements and wildlife.
Kila Nunnery has seven little temples and several residential buildings that straddle on the cliff-side facing Paro.
Situated at 3500m, it was established in the 9th century, making it possibly the oldest nunnery in Bhutan.
In a land famous for cliffside aeries and secluded, wind-swept lhakhangs,The Taktsang Palphug, or "Tiger's Nest" monastery, is the most iconic and eye-catching of Bhutan's architectural treasures.
Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, an 8th-century Buddhist master from Tibet, journeyed to Paro on the back of a pregnant, flaming tigress, giving rise to the name Taktsang. These days, most people walk or ride a horse.
Disguised as the wrathful entity Dorje Drolö, the Guru took refuge in a cliffside cave, which is now the most sacred spot here. The temple was established in 8th century, but destroyed by fire in 1998 and rebuilt.
Thimpu and Paro are your bets bets for foreign food, although if it's your last or first stop, chili and cheese wouldn't be bad either.