TSUKALBO, long famed for its “waters of immortality” was ironically mortal. In a region with an abundance of abandoned buildings, this town, known for its radon-carbonate mineral springs, whose natural temperature of 33–35 °C, has a concentration of some of the best modern ruins.
This grand train station linked much of the Soviet Union to Tsukalbo, USSR's premier spa-resort town.
These post-Soviet days, the exalted Comrade Worker has been replaced by sticky-beak tourists, also known as urbexers- urban explorers.
Balneology, the study of the therapeutic uses of natural mineral waters, for healing, prevention, and rehabilitation, has been studied here since the 1800s.
In 1950-1951, architects I. Zaalishvili and V. Kedia prepared a project plan for the town where sanatoriums form a circle around a park, recreation and balneology facilities. Tskaltubo was divided into the following zones: balneological, sanitarian and living.
In 1953, Tskaltubo became the important spa-resort during the Soviet times. At different times, there were built 19 sanatoriums and pensions, nine baths, resort park,
In 1950s, sanatoriums were built in a circle around a park, recreation and balneology facilities. At different times, 19 sanatoriums and pensions, nine baths, and a resort park graced Tsukalbo.
As many as 125,000 Soviet citizens visited the town every year for R&R. There were even direct trains to Tskaltubo from Moscow
The 1991 collapse of the Soviet Union was also the collapse of the spa industry.
Buildings were abandoned, stripped of their tiles, pipes, radiators, furniture, and anything that could be re-used or sold off as scrap.
The trains no longer run, but marshrutka cover the 20 minutes from Kutaisi regularly.
Around 10,000 refugees were settled in the spa hotels in the early 90s, after fleeing conflict in nearby Abkhazia.
There are signs everywhere of recent occupation, and sudden departures. Some buildings appear to still be occupied.
Developers have got their hands on several of the buildings, where you probably won't be getting in.
Sanatorium Sakartvelo (previous pic also) is one of the larger accessible hotels.
The multistory building is on a hill, and the only objections will come from territorial cows.
Other buildings have a self-appointed guardian, who'll let you in for a negotiable price. The most comprehensive coverage is here: https://wander-lush.org/visit-tskaltubo-travel-guide-tips/
While the buildings were abandoned, the town wasn't. It's a functioning town where people live and work and shop. You are in people's village, and sometimes their home.
A good number of wonderful mosaics have survived, like this one at the Hotel Aia.
One of the largest and most photogenic places still "open" is Sanatorium Medea.
Surrounded by trees, behind the OTT neoclassical entrance seen earlier, forest has reclaimed the rear courtyard.
You'll probably have to pay your way in to Sanatorium Metallurgist. It isn't much and she quickly accepted 2-for-1 when we walked off.
High ceilings, chandeliers, huge curved window for the foyer, and a rabbit warren of little rooms where dust and debris have recently replaced inhabitants.
A mosiac covered children's playground, slowly losing a battle with nature marks Sanatorium Gelati.
It's also rather large, has some grand features and plenty of rooms off its corridors, but watch out for the resident cows.
It's a fascinating area to wander through, but there are many sad. poignant reminders of lives uprooted.
Some buildings will be torn down. Others become fancy, new resorts. But the clock is already ticking on this adventure, and one day, there'll be no more exploring.