GEORGIA’S WEST is a wide, varied region, from the beach resorts by the sea, mountains in the north, and forest and wetlands towards Armenia. Heading to the mountains, you’ll probably pass through. Many stop at Kutaisi, but other places seem less visited.
The gateway to Georgia's west is Kutaisi, a city of churches, markets, and the odd abandoned building like this Soviet military academy.
While many visitors continue north to Mestia, and others hit the Black Sea resorts, not so many venture south, where there are castles....
....forests...
...quirky museums in grand old palaces..
...and centuries old cave monasteries.
Kutaisi is deservedly popular, but by no means overrun by tourists.
The Green Market is one of the country's best, and is still a very local affair, free of tourist tat.
In the centre of town, near parks, squares and many fine buildings, the market's walls are adorned with great Soviet reliefs.
A market since the late 1800s, the iconic curved roof structure dates to the 1980s.
Kutaisi is the centre for regional trade, and the Green Market showcases most local products.
The city also hosts a number of excellent eateries. One of the best and most famous is also one of the simplest: Bikentia's Kebabery, founded in 1954, serves one dish.
There are a number of interesting neighbourhoods, and churches and other sights in town, and some good short hikes on the outskirts.
The abandoned spa resorts of Tsukalbo are 30 minutes away, but you'll see a few urbex spots in town, too.
On a hill looking over the town, Saint George Church is an important 7th century place of pilgrimage.
Far away towards Armenia, the cave monastaries of Vardzia date from 12th century, and are still in use today.
One way to get there is from Akhaltsikhe, which boasts arguably Georgia's finest castle, as well as some good eating and other sites.
The historic little town of Borjomi is bit further away, so you'd need to charter a car to see it as a day trip.
Or you could just go for a hike in the forests on the edge of town. Borjomi is nationally famous for its mineral springs.
In the other direction from Kutaisi, we found Zugdidi to be a really friendly, little town, seemingly overlooked by most tourists.
Its Farmers' Market was one of our favourites in Georgia, large, full of chatty folks and this, that and the other.
The town's tree-lined boulevards make for pleasant ambling. Old building sport Soviet bas reliefs and mosaics, and ORKOL Studio makes some of Georgia's finest.
The 19th century Dadiani Palace is the biggest attraction in the city, part of a complex of several grand buildings, a church and botanic gardens.
Established as a museum in 1830, the collection holds sacred religious icons, local royal history, and quirks like a Napoleon death mask.
There is not much left of the nearby Castle of Rukhi, north of town, but it does give you views into Abkhazia, one of the many disputed areas that seem to occur on Russian frontiers.
For the most accurate and comprehensive Zugdidi info, including nearby abandoned spa resorts and where to find the town's best Soviet murals or meals: https://wander-lush.org/zugdidi-georgia-guide/