The Armenian capital is full of parks, grand buildings, outdoor eateries and a good market. Unfortunately for us, two of its major attractions were closed when we visited.

If you're passing from north to south, you'll probably need to visit Yerevan, where you can see this incredibly old transportation unit.

One of its markets is located immediately outside the main railway station, even spilling out onto the platforms.

Like other parts of the country, Yerevan is full of fresh and cheap fruits, including bucket loads of berries and boxes of apricots.

Smaller than the grand silk road bazaars found in desert countries further east, this is substantial for the Caucasus.

Churchkhela, fruit wrapped walnut snacks in string form are common around these parts, but the ball-shaped goodies may be an Armenian thing.

Definitely an Armenian speciality is "horats panir" (pot or buried cheese), a sharp, salty cheese, buried in pots under ash to mature for months.

Armenians struck me as more open and friendly than their Georgian neighbours. These markets confirmed that view for me.

Yerevan naturally has its share of grim Soviet apartment blocks, but there are plenty of grand European buildings on boulevards and in parks.

Linking the lower city to the northern hills, The Cascades is one of the world's most interesting public spaces. Essential stairs, but bloody big ones, the project was conceived in 1920s, re-imagined in 1970s, begun and abandoned in 80s, and opened in 2011.

One of the city's grand buildings is the purpose built museum, which has a history of its own, as well as millennia of cool, old stuff.

Luckily we made the time for this, because unfortunately, due to bad timing we missed two of Yerevan's must see attractions.

One was the Matenadaran, the library or museum of Armenian manuscripts, a gigantic building right near our guest-house. Closed for 3 days.












