TO THE WEST OF the modern capital of Ulan Batur, Arangkhai province is where Genghis Khan made his capital towards the end of his life. His son Ogedei also kept his capital there, but there empire split under Khublai Khan. The remains of that capital at Kharkhorin, are a reminder and a lesson for world leaders.
Arangkhai province has many notable natural areas, none of which I visited. I popped briefly into the pretty town of Tsetserleg, onwards to the world famous Taikhar Chuluu. Read on.
The provincial capital of Tsetserleg was actually half way attractive, but I was headed further afield, so left in the morning.
Zaankhoshuu was my jumpong off point for the "enormous Taikhat Chuluu rock formation, the subject of many local legends." Wow! Sounds impressive. I'm thinking Uluru, Bungle Bungle...something "enormous."
Camping along the Khoid Tatur Gul (lake) was certainly pleasant, I couldn't help feeling a little short-changed......
Yep, that's it! Behind and to the left of the left-hand tree. I didn't even realise I had a picture until 20 years later. The biggest dud of my travelling life!
So, after checking out the rock, I was here for a day or so. I threw a line in (caught nothing, as usual), and this fellow came by to say hello.
He brought a mate. Besides that, there was really nothing to do at the site of this enormous, legendary rock formation.
A goat herd here, and shepherd there, some cows and horses passed me by.
These people let me on there bus to Kharkhorin. They cracked another bottle of vodka, every time it broke down, which happens a lot with Russian buses. It was a pretty messy bus ride!
The "Great Khan" or khan of khans, Genghis made Kharkhorin his capital. His son continued its expansion, but Khublai moved the capital to Cathay (Beijing). Here was the seat of the greatest empire ever.
Jingis, as Genghis is known to Mongols, implored his sons to keep the empire united. It was here at Kharkhorin that "kurultai" council meetings came to recognise the new khan.
Mongols are nomads, people who roam the steppes, so permanent townships and structures did not come naturally to them.
Culture, custom, religion, language, all manner of things were absorbed into the Mongol culture. Religion was freely practised, and Buddhism and Islam were common.
The Erdene Zuu Monastery was built several centuries after Genghis and Ogedei.
The Tibetan influence is quite obvious.
So is the Han Chinese influence, a legacy of Khublai's rule over Cathay/Shang Du (Xanadu). Khublai's moving the capital to Cathay accelerated the split of the mongol empire.
So while the remains of these mighty empires here is quite wonderous, it is how little which remains which impressed me about Kharkhorin.
What was capital of an empire which spread across to the Mediterranian and the Balkans is now just a sad collection of impoverished houses. Is this the fate of Washington and Beijing?