WHEN YOU THINK “CEBU”, you are probably thinking long white beaches and a technicolour underworld of tropical fish. Maybe a waterfall or a beach resort? Cebu City is the gateway to all that, and for most people, nothing more. One of the biggest cities outside Manila, it’s noisy, dirty, and either run down or being developed. Despite its obvious drawbacks, I found it to be a pretty good shithole to spend a few days wandering around, on my way from here to there.