ARRIVING BY ferry from nearby Corfu, we took an instant liking to Albania. Not beach-goers, we headed up to Gjirokastra, a visited the coastal as a day trip. More bits of Albania’s south wait for us, next time, along the Greek and Macedonian borders.
Gjirokastra was our first stop in Albania.
We had arrived by ferry in Sarande, enjoying stunning Adriatic views. Sarande was just a bus transfer, but it did seem like a friendly place.
Steep, stone streets lead to the old, stone town centre, full of Ottoman era buildings, overlooked by a big fort.
People have lived here for around 2,500 years.
Our introduction to town was a steep walk, some hearty local food, and.....
....an old dear folllowing us to lunch dropping the price on her spacious, traditional guesthouse. The views.
The dominating fort is one of the largest in the Balkans, dating back perhaps 1000 years, but what you see now is 19th century.
It's worth an hour or two or your time, for not jus the views.
The fort served as a communist-era prison, and a museum sits among the tunnels and cannons.
Under the fort (seperate ticket) lies the largest nuclear shelter outside the capital. For the party cadre, it was designed to run government for months.
Ordinary equals had to survive in more modest shelters, which are scattered all across the country.
Above ground, 21st century Gjirokastra is a colourful, lively town, popular with tourists from near and far. The eating here is good too.
Considered a living museum, the town has Ottoman mosques, churches, and centuries old traditional family houses which can be visited.
It's a good place to wander and get lost. It's not particularly large.
Away from the town centre are humble family houses sitting on the hills.
An Ottoman era stone bridge sits in the valley, a good, short walk away.
We rented a scooter to venture further, back towards Sarande. Euro scooters suck.
One minor stops was the ancient Greek ruins of Phoenice or Finiq, dating back to 500BC. The ruins are so-so, but there are some easy to visit nuclear bunkers on the hill, too.
Butrint, the ancient Greek city, sits at the bottom of this hill, a short scoot from Sarande.
The site, popular with daytrippers, is the best preserved ancient city in the Balkans.
Towers, churches, shops, walls, gates, baths, and a theatre all survive, some in remarkable nick, from 300BC.
Situated on a forested promontory, the site is a pleasant but warm place to wander.
The peculiar Venetian triangular fort across the river can be visited by punt.
We did visit the famous "Blue Eye" and after a long hot slog from the parking, my reaction was "you're fucking kidding!" Overrated. These water views at Butrint were infinitely better.