Flashy Tirana and classic Berat are chalk and cheese. Lots of cheese.
Tirana has a few very good museums, funky galleries, good parkland and nearby hills. Despite all this and plenty of fancy bars, chances are you’ll pass quickly.
Berat gets all the good adjectives: charming, relaxed, historical, friendly, white-washed, traditional. The tightly twisted cobbled alleys also hide some great eateries- especially the tiny, quirky Lili Homemade Food.