KRUSEVO sits an hour up in the hills above Prilep. Compact old streets house traditional Ottoman homes. A substantial rural centre, Prilep is the home of the tobacco industry, ruins and monasteries. Both are enjoyable and interesting places that keep you well fed.
Sitting roughly half way between Skopje and Ohrid are two pleasant and intersting places, the small city of Prilep.....
...and the smaller mountain town of Krusevo.
Both had some very good places to eat. This cheese dish and...
and this hearty mountain stew came from a very traditional family run restaurant in Krusevo.
Even without paragliding and whatnot, Krusevo itself is a charming old town for wandering.
Distinctive, Ottoman-era double and triple storey family houses climb the hillside towards the out of place Hotel Montana Palace.
Some have of course fallen into disrepair, but by and large, they are much loved and lived in homes.
On the opposite side, the church and bazaar sit below two very 20th century monuments.
The memorial to local turned internation rock star Tose Proeski is like no other. Opposite sits this, probably the most famous of all Yugoslav "spomenik" (monuments).
The Illinden Monument commemorates the widespread 1903 uprising against Ottoman rule. The insurgents' Krusevo Republic lasted just ten days.
Just an hour on a bus takes you back from the never nevr land of Krusevo....
....to the big brother city of Prilep.
Prilep is the centre of Macedonia's tobacco industry, and tens of thousands of dollars of the leaves are left to dry everywhere.
The old bazaar area has most of the town's bars and restaurants.
It abuts the town square where families stroll, snack and sip in the cool of the evening.
A walkable distance to the north are more of Prilep's attractions.
The Varos district was once home to 77 churches and monasteries, mostly from the 15th to 17th centuries.
On the hills above is (are?) Marko Towers.
Fortifications were built here from the 10th to 14th centuries, including under the last pre-Ottoman king, Marko.
Both the fort remains and the views justify the easy walk up.
Remarkably, there are no signs, no staff, gates or tickets. The site is completely open, unwatched.
Perhaps the city slickers of Prilep aren't readdy to swap their Zastavas for Porsches just yet.