THE MASSIVE ROCK churches of Lalibela are rightly famous, but there are equally impressive mountain top churches scattered around the town of Hawzen. Axum is home to the Ark Of The Covenant and some of the largest obelisk in the world.

Dungur, also known as the Palace Of The Queen Of Sheba, contains mansions from its time as a capital in the 4th and 5th centuries.

The Lioness of Gobedra, legend says was left after the Archangel Michael threw the lion so hard, it left this imprint on the rock.

In the shadows of the fromer Aksumite capital of Dungur, with a plough that looks like it was borrowed from a musuem, a farmer galliantly tries to coax life from the rocky soil.

The stelae -giant carved obelisk- of Axum are some of the largest single pieces of sculpted rock in the world.

The road to Axum (Aksum) from Debark is often rated amongst the world's most dangerous, including by Top Gear. The scenery is a good as the bus is old.

I was personally less than impressed with Axum. The stelae are impressive: they were carved from a single piece of rock. But after a few minutes, I was more interested in the lizards, birds and squirrels.

Home to The Ark Of The Covenant, the chest supposedly containing the Ten Commandments. Not that you can see it. Or even get close to it. You can look at the building (not this one, but on same grounds) from about 20 metres away. Arguably the most underwhelming site I have been to.

Despite their immense height (up to 33 metres) and weight (500 tonnes) Italy stole the Obelisk of Axum in 1937, not returning it until 2008. Other lie where they have fallen over their 1600 year lifetime.

Hawzen itself is otherwise a dusty, one horse town. However it did surpirse us by having, despite its barren surrounds, fresh garden salad on the menu- and actually available!

Like most Ethiopian Orthodox churches, the Tigrayan rock churches are finely decorated with colourful bible stories.

The peaks are dotted with churches, and getting to them often involves steep, precipitous climbs, clambering on ledges and not looking down.

Visiting the churches is not a stroll. There are rocks to climb over and down, and paths to follow. There is a guiding association in town.

Many of not most of the churches still operate. Visiting some will involve waiting for a priest to turn up with a key (and a favour to ask).

There are over a hundred churches in the region, dating back to the 4th or 5th century, making them some of the oldest in the world.

Ethiopia is a twitcher's paradise, with colourful birds common in cities and towns, and many lakes like Ziwa in the south teeming with birdlife.

After the fall of Jerusalam in the 12th century, King Lalibela set out to build a "New Jerusalam" in the town which now bears his name.

"I weary of writing more about these buildings, because it seems to me that I shall not be believed if I write more."
Portuguese priest Francisco Álvares in the 1520s.

Ethiopian authorities know they have a unique "product" and charge steeply for foreign visitors. So do Apple, Nike though.