
Lake Tanganyika is long, strecthing from Burundi to Zambia. It is also clear, calm and does a wicked sunset.

The shores of Gombe National Park, where legendary primatologist Jane Goodall researches chimpanzees. The water here is unbelievably clear and mercifully free of water-borne nasties.

Getting to Gombe National Park involves a few hours on this slightly overloaded vessel, where lifejackets were at a premium. They make great cushions.

This is the First Class Deck of the Merchant Vessel Liemba, which pplies the eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika. The deck is not reserved for first class passengers.

Built is 1913, she was scuttled by her German captain in 1916, and restored and returned to service in 1927.

Few of her ports of call have docking facilities. Passengers are ferried to shore in smaller boats, and scramble up the side of the boat.

The 1913 MV Liemba carries goods and passengers up and down Lake Tanganyika. Comfort and safety are not prime considerations.

Loading and unloadin continued at night, with goods and people ferried t and from shore by smaller craft.

We disembarked via a boat like this, in the dark. Unlike the MV Illala in Malawi, shore transfers cost. We had to wade waist deep to shore, into a dark village. It had no food for sale and no hotel.
We slept on the bus which was leaving in the morning.

View from the deck, MV Liemba. Nobody was stopped from using the first class deck, so with people sleeping outside our door, it was not the luxury experience that "first class" suggests.

After an early start and sme sweating walking through the forests, the clear, blue waters of the lake are good for a dip.

Large boxes, bundles of fruit, sacks of rice, small children and old people all get transferred by small boats up the side of the MV Liemba.