The village life, and every care that reigns
O’er youthful peasants and declining swains;
What labour yields, and what, that labour past,
Age, in its hour of languor, finds at last;
(George Crabb, “the village”- I just found it on the innernet.)

The old city is packed onto the sides of hills either side of the river, with the old houses giving it the nickname "city of 1000 windows."

Steeper and larger, but no less likable, Gjirokastra is sits under the watchful gaze of one of Albania's oldest and biggest forts.

The mountain villages of Albania's north are worth the hike. Theth has a number of good walks around, and still boasts old stone safe-houses used to protect family members during feuds.

Kosovo has been in the news lately. The bridge in Mitrovica divides Serb and Albanian parts like night and day.

The Kosovo capital has centuries of history in its tightly entwined streets and districts, but a very young population.

Macedonia's ancient trading and diplomatic city of Bitola has Ottoman mosques and markets, baroque embassies and mansions, and BC era ruins.

Krusevo is a small mountain town in central Macedonia, full of charming old houses and the odd church, as well as some fine food.

Macedonia's busiest tourist spot, the historical lake-front town of Ohrid boasts forts, churches, saints and more.

Skopje, Macedonia, one strange cat of a city. Statues the size of mountains, in numbers that must be seen to be believed.