GONAREZHOU

GEOGRAPHICALLY AN extension of the world famous Kruger National Park, Gonarezhou gets but a fraction of the visitors. Camps are small, unfenced, unstaffed and isolated.
Locals may tell you that you can’t get in with even the hardiest of 2WD bakkies. Listen to them. You need high clearance. You need 4WD.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK Runde River wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — In a remote corner of south-east Zimbabwe, Gonarezhou is north its famous neighbour Kruger.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK dark sky wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — Bordered by Mozambique and the Save River, it is Zim's second largest park.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK plains wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — I had been advised against going with a Hilux 2WD, but checked before going and again on arrival, and was told I'd have no problems on most roads.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK river bed wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — The only available camps were at the spectacular Chilojo Cliffs site- unstaffed, no water, remote bush camping.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK kudu wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — We asked the reception about using the Sililijo Loop road, where there'd been a morning leopard sighting. No problem at all, they said.

ZIMBABWE Gonarezhou National Park mechanics Hilux breakdown rangers camping wildlife nature conservation travel — Bounced along and around and off the rockiest road in Zimbabwe for hours, we eventually went up, and down onto a rock which pierced the radiator.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK kingfisher birds wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — We spluttered and stop-started and limped the last 4-6kms into camp, and literally at our camp site, the car gave up.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — A passing couple had alerted rangers to our woes, and mechanics arrived after dark, removed the radiator, which they repaired and fitted the next day. Unbelievable service.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK chinstripe bee eater wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — Not part of the big plan, we now had just a day left to enjoy the park.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK elephant crossing river wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — Gonarezhou means "place of elephants", and we had already seen a few in the river and come through our camp.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK impala in bush wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — There was no shortage of smaller game in the immediate camp area.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — Lions were calling on our final morning, so we headed off in that direction.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK elephants in forest wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — First we had to get past these guys, having a slow breakfast on a curve in the road.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK elephant wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — Our mechanic-saviour had said we couldn't get to the pool in the north, but for the time being, the road presented no issues, elephants aside.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK tree wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — We did eventually see two lions, on a river bank, 2-3kms in the distance.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — Eventually, and quite suddenly, the road deteriorated, and we needed no encouraging to U-turn back to camp.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK elephant under cliff wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — Black rhino have twice gone locally extinct, and twice been re-introduced, most recently in 2021.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK Kudu wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — 29 were re-introduced, joining over 11,000 elephants, 350 leopard and 125 lions.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK plains wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — Given the parks vast size -5,000 sq km- we were happy with our two lions.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK pied kingfisher birds wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — Our exit route didn't turn up any cats, but plenty of hippo and birds.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK impala wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — In some ways, I regret going there. With the same car, we could have spent 2-3 days enjoying better game in Kruger.

ZIMBABWE GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK giraffes wildlife nature conservation animals chilojo cliffs bush camping safari big game eastern zimbabwe travel africa — But the sense of isolation and the scenery of Gonarezhou cannot be reproduced in busy Kruger.