IF THE TERRITORY IS my favourite part of Australia, Nitmiluk may well be my favourite place in the Territory. It is just so spectacular.
Most of us whiteys knew it as Katherine Gorge. The gorge cuts its way through the Top End, through the spectacular landscapes that begin far away in Arnhem Land, through Kakadu.
The hiking and swimming places are hard to beat. Birds and animals are plentiful. Lelilyn (Edith Falls) is also part of this great park, with even more great places to walk or get wet.
If you Never, Never go, you’ll never, never know.
Just south of Katherine (250km is "just" in the Territory) Daly Waters is a quirky little outback town where you can get a good barramundi burger and sit outside photo-bombing tourists!
Just on the north of Katherine, Edith Falls (Leliyn) is part of Nitmiluk National Park.
A multi-day walk between to the two parts of the park ends here, where there are good swimming pools, falls, camping and coffee.
Like most of Nitmiluk, it is awesomely good.
A series of short hikes and waterways begins practically in the car park, but feel like a world away.
More of Lelilyn.
Tough native flora on the waks around Edith Falls.
Permits and experience are needed to tackle the long walk (3 days from memory). It is seriously hot out there. We met 2 or 3 at the end, and they all loved it though.
Blue faced honeyeaters are common in both parts of Nitmiluk.
The buffalo burger at Edith, how good! Worth stopping for this alone.
A cheeky kookaburra tries to hide in the main campground of Nitmiluk, east of the town of Katherine.
The Baruwei Walk leaves the camp and takes you the long, scenic way to the main lookout. It is only an hour or two, and worth it.
Known to most Australian's as Katherine Gorge, whatever you call it, see it.
Large palm trees on the gorge cliffs above Southern Rockpool, one of the many points on Nitmiluk's hiking trails.
Probably as far as you'll be going on a day-hike, Butterfly Gorge. No crocs (usually) almost no people. The walk there is more rewarding than it is challenging, and this is the end.
A cruise-boat goes around Jedda's Rock. If you have the time and inclination, hire a kayak or take a cruise, but don't do what one famous movie stunt man did- jump from here.
It was 20 years between visits to Nitmiluk for me, and I was worried that I had romanticised how good it was. I hadn't.
Pat's Lookout, just near souther rockpool, which was stagnant- check before going down!
Take in the details which make up this landscape.
We walked the Baruwei Loop twice, and so nobody both times.
Most people take the short 15 minute walk to the lookout, but that is actually uphill. Go the Baruwei.
A photo of a stick? Yes, but what forces of nature shaped that stick like that? If sticks could talk!
Dusk comes to Nitmiluk. We had had some threatening clouds the previous nights in Kakadu.
The walking trails have regular water stations. Fill up at every one. You'll need it.
This may be a so-called "agile wallaby", one of the more interesting specie names going.
Close up of a weathered old tree trunk.
Heat will probably be the biggest challenge hiking in Nitmiluk. The gradoent is rarely an issue, and the scenery rocks (pun intended).
Back at the campground, there is still plenty to keep you (well, me) interested.
Such as the white plumed honeyeater. (or the cafe with views over the gorge).
I won't be waiting another 20 years to come back here.