MONTENEGRO’S EAST brushes up against Serbia, Kosovo, and Albania, rising up in forested hills, which make for excellent hiking. Luckily for us, there is a level suit everyone. After the heat and crowds of the coast, the mountains were a welcome relief.

A former Olympic discus thrower, owner of our outstanding guest house, Tara Riverside. drove us to the gate. Wonderful people, wonderful place.

At the end of our day's hike, he also insisited on giving us a honey based ointment for our tired feet.

Armed with a take-away "mountain sandwich" lunch and hiking app Komoot, we headed up and over some hills.

It probably took us six hours from lake to town, down some steep hills and through some faint trails.

And despite slipping and landing in cow shit, this was one of, maybe the best thing we did in Montenegro.

Mountain views eventually gave way to farms (cows, dogs...) and villages and wild berries. The more adventurous can hike for days.

The late 16th century Ottoman era Husein Pasa Mosque is possibly Montenegro's finest piece of Islamic architecture.

A longer stroll outside town takes you to the Holy Trinity Monastery, a Serbian Orthodox church founded before the Ottoman arrival.

Building and artefacts date from the 16th and 17th centuries, and the old Nun who holds the keys is a laugh.

And Pljevlja has some very nice places to get fat. Wife said we'll start with a small mixed plate......