MONTENEGRO’S EAST brushes up against Serbia, Kosovo, and Albania, rising up in forested hills, which make for excellent hiking. Luckily for us, there is a level suit everyone. After the heat and crowds of the coast, the mountains were a welcome relief.
We have much fonder memories of Montenegro's mountains.
Even getting stuck in this mountain town, Berane, with not much to do wasn't bad.
There was a nice old Serbian Orthodox church to walk up to.
And one of those strange Yugoslav monuments in the hills, and not much else.
But you come here not for the towns, but for the forests, lakes, mountains, trees and fresh air.
Excellent, reasonably easy and accesible hiking can be done near Mojkovac (pic) and Zablijak.
Biogradska Gora lies just a few kms outside town.
A simple circuit around the lake takes maybe an hour or less.
Getting to the lake involves a 2-3km walk from the main road.
A former Olympic discus thrower, owner of our outstanding guest house, Tara Riverside. drove us to the gate. Wonderful people, wonderful place.
At the end of our day's hike, he also insisited on giving us a honey based ointment for our tired feet.
It wasn't the stroll around the lake that wore us out.
Armed with a take-away "mountain sandwich" lunch and hiking app Komoot, we headed up and over some hills.
It probably took us six hours from lake to town, down some steep hills and through some faint trails.
And despite slipping and landing in cow shit, this was one of, maybe the best thing we did in Montenegro.
Mountain views eventually gave way to farms (cows, dogs...) and villages and wild berries. The more adventurous can hike for days.
A small detour between Zablijak and Mojkovac, is the small mixed town of Pljelvja.
The late 16th century Ottoman era Husein Pasa Mosque is possibly Montenegro's finest piece of Islamic architecture.
Unfortunately, it was closed when we visited.
A longer stroll outside town takes you to the Holy Trinity Monastery, a Serbian Orthodox church founded before the Ottoman arrival.
Building and artefacts date from the 16th and 17th centuries, and the old Nun who holds the keys is a laugh.
And Pljevlja has some very nice places to get fat. Wife said we'll start with a small mixed plate......
Not to be outdone, Zablijak and Durmitor also boast some fine nature.
Some come for the cool waters and forests of Crno Jezero (Black Lake, I think).
A variety of hikes, from easy to strenous, join other smaller lakes and high mountain peaks.
And the hike to view Tara Canyon is 4-5 hours well spent. White water rafting and all that stuff on offer on the river as well.
The pleasant fields on the edge of town, not far from a good selection of eateries, remind me of why Montenegro's mountains were so enjoyable.