ATHENS AND THESSALONIKI

THE ANCIENT GREEK capital, home to democracy and the Parthenon, is for many just a stepping stone to other parts of the country. Truth is, it peaked about 3000 years ago and has been downhill ever since. Athens really is a dump.
Thessaloniki is a bit better Smaller, more manageable, less plagued by crime, but with far less ancient history. The museum is pretty impressive.