AN OVERNIGHT TRAIN FROM the noise of Bangkok, Chiang Mai is low-key, laid-back and relaxed. Capital of the Lanna Kingdom from 1294, a moat and remains of four walls surround an old city of ancient tree-shaded Buddhist temples. At the north and south gates, vast street markets spring up in the cool evening, the smell of spices and frying fill the air. Markets spill onto streets or swelter under tin roofs. A national park, mountain, temple and royal residence fills the city’s backyard at Doi Suthep. And if that is not enough, Chiang Mai is the launching place for ventures further afield, such as Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Doi Inthanon and Mae Sai.
I love Chiang Mai. I guess I have made 25 visits there, maybe more.
I make an annual trip to the Chiang Mai Sixes cricket tournament. Junior (and senior) cricket is surprisingly well established, and some of the kids the 6s have supported played for Thailand in the 2020 World Cup.
A moat surrounds the ancient walls of the old city, which became the capital of Lanna in 1294. It's a pleasant, easy-going city.
Many markets overflow with fresh produce destined for those famous Thai curries, salads and soups.
You can't walk far without coming across a wat, some of them dating back to the 13th century. Each is different and most of them make a pleasant place to while away some time.
The city is growing. Hotels and shopping centres keep springing up, but old buildings like this on Thapae Road can still be found.
Food in Chiang Mai rocks. Lanna food is of course popular, but there's Burmese and Shan, Isaan Thai from the east, Chinese Thai. Try these chillis stuffed with pork from San Pa Khoi market, one of many across the city.
Thapae Gate is one of the city's most famous landmarks, where this game of sepak takraw was played. Played from village to international level across South East Asia, the athletic game is like volleyball, without hands.
The view around Thapae Gate has changed since this was taken in 1993. That corner shop is now a Starbucks, and several medium sized hotels line the road.
Other parts have remained the same, like Wat Lok Moli, built sometime before 1367, one of several temples along the northern part of the moat.
Many temples of similar vintage are found within the city walls.
Relatively new, the 1846 Wat Phan Tao is one of my favourites, with its sculptured gardens, red bridge over the pond leading to a small rice field.
A line of ceremonial bells at Wat Phan Tao, which was originally a royal palace building for Chao Mahawong, the ruler of Chiang Mai.
An interesting but seldom visited temple is Wat Chet Yot, incorporating elements of Thai, Lao, Indian, and Chinese design.
A short ride from the old city, Wat Chet Yot is set amongst a wooded garden, and despite being on the ring road, is an oasis of calm.
Nearly all Thai houses and business have a spirit house, where offerings are left. Signs of faith are everywhere, although this may just be a pretty set of figures in a shop fountain.
Small figures, like dancers, elephants, horses, and others are often found at the base of chedi in temples.
The traditions of Thailand's famous Songkran water festival (mid April) are about blessing people with water, to cleanse the old year and welcome the new.
The traditions have given way to an arms race of wtare pistols and 44-gallon drums of iced water. Chiang Mai is many farang's choice for Songkran. Nothing and nobody stays dry.
Fresh fruits are one of the delights of all of Thailand, and if you can't make it to the market, the market will come to you.
Meung Mai market sprawls across several blocks along the west bank of the Ping river.
Old Chinese-style shop/warehouses disgorge their goods onto the streets. The king of fruits, durian, does pong a bit and takes some getting used to, but it's alright.
Pre-made curry bases at Meung Mai. You'll also find them at nearby Warorot, which has a great selection cooked foods for take-away, as well as clock, jocks, clothes, fishing gear, farm supplies, etc etc.
Nong Hoi is a small market on the east bank, heading south out of town. I bought a few dishes from this old dear, and they were fantastic.
"Sai ua" (various spellings) is the northern Thai pork sausage. Eat it.
Further south, not far from the airport, Wiang Kum Kam was the capital until a series of floods forced it move 700 years ago.
The area has a relaxed country air about it, and boasts a score of ancient temples of various size, design and state of preservation. Wat Pupia is not recorded in historical texts, but may be from the 16th century.
Probably the only place you won't have to yourself is Wat Chedi Liam. Dating from the 1200s, little remains of that era, and the 1908 restorations show Burmese influence.
A number of houses and small guesthouses have eye-catching fertility symbols.
Elephants ("chang", like the beer) are revered in Thai culture (and Laos, Shan, Mon, Burman, Khmer). This is one of the larger ones I have seen at a spirit house.
Like those in the main part of town, many of the Wiang Kum Kam temples are in active use.
The spirit house of King Mengrai, founder of Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai kingdoms, is at at Wat Chiang Kam, which may explain the size of the elephant out the front.
Few of the Wian Kum Kam temples are mind-blowing, Raiders Of The Lost Ark level. Most are like Wat Pupia, modest brick structures, foundations and chedi, but the whole country feel makes the area worth an afternoon.
Back in the walls of the old city, there is no shortage of Buddhist temples, and if you interest level isn't so high, a day or six spent walking the area will do your blood pressure wonders.
Please remember to dress and act appropriately at temples. They are wonderful places to sit, watch, relax, cool down, and we farang must respect our hosts.
Beautiful, old wooden houses like this are becoming rarer around the inner parts of Chiang Mai, where concrete and air-con has taken hold.
Many things are still done the old way, and one of the most enduring is the food culture.
But Buddhism is central to life in Chiang Mai, and watching these youngsters bless Wat Lok Molee gives me hope that a generation or two from now, some things will still be the same.
Covid gutted the Chiang Mai economy, so dependent on tourism. This centre on the night bazaar would normally be chock full.
Huen Phen is one of the best and most famous eateries in town. This was lucnhtime, April 2022.
The food was still awesome. Business like this with a long history, and local clients tended to survive, where others did not.
A samlor sits outside a traditional northern house, possibly a cafe or guesthouse.
It was genuinely sad to see such a bustling town struggling, but the worst is over for now. Its time to shine will come again.