WHERE THE MEKONG spreads into Cambodia, the spine of land which separates Vietnam from Thailand. The people and food and culture show influences of both, and as you leave the plains, there are mountain people who show no signs of either.

Nearby was the ancient city of Shrestapura, part of the Chenla and Champa kingdoms in the 5th century, but part of the Khmer Empire from the 10th century. Wat Phu is 11th century.

Few bridges span the Mekong even today. (The first Thai-Laos Friendship bridge, near Vientianne, opened in 1994.) Passengers cross by punt.

A girl shops in the Pakse market. The basket on her right is for sticky rice, an essential part of Laos food.

Salavan is a small town inland, near the far south of Laos. Women in this village are pounding grain.

The town and province of Salavan is on the Bolaven plateau, which takes its name from the Laven ethnic group. These days, there is a mix of Mon-Khmer, lowland Laos and other ethnic groups. This is the local school teacher in a village nearby.

Laos cuisine relies heavily on sticky rice, which is dipped in sour soups, or eaten with spicy salads.

While the Indonesian word "sarong" becomes more common around the world, the Lao woven skirt is called "sinh".

A truck head up to the Bolaven plateau, an agricultural area which produces lots of coffee and tobacco. I wasn't on that bus, bus rode one just like it up.

In the thin strip of central Laos between the Mekong (Thailand) and the mountains (Vietnam), a tuk tuk heads home for the day.

Tha Kek was the first place I went to in Laos, a sleepy town in a sleepy country. I hired a mountain bike and cycled east for a day.

I was glad I was cycling rather than riding that bus, but I did have to do some pennance on Laos transport, too.

It's been almost 20 years since I visited Laos. Change will have come to many places, but I am confident quiet places like these remain the same.

























