ANOTHER OF THE GREAT silk road era cities, Khiva’s monuments are mostly contained within the walls of the Ichon Qala (Old City).
A city here dates back to Shem, son of ark builder, Noah, and is referenced in 10th century Arab chronicles. Ethinc Persian were replaced by Turkic speakers, and then in 1511, a band of nomadic Uzbek tribes established the Khanate of Khiva.
The capital was moved here in the 17th century from Konye-Urgench (Turkmenistan), and despite struggles within and with Bukhara, held power until the Russians came in the 20th century.
This compact town is packed with mosques, madrasahs and minarets of exquisite beauty.

While at time Khiva feels like a museum, it is living city, and outside the city walls, you can meet people like mother & son samosa team here.

Hundreds of old buildings, including 50 of historical signifigance like the Mohammed Rakhim Khan madrasah fill the walls.

The Khan hope to see Bukhara from the 70m top, but died and the Kalta Minor Minaret project stopped. The 26m base dominates the centre of the Ichon Qala (old city).

Guests are often welcome to sticky-beak in traditional workshops, which have seen a post-Soviet revival.

213 karagacha (black elm) columns in a grid configuration in the 18th century Jamu mosque are a testament of the cultrual heights Khiva reached.

The finest craftsmen from conquered regions worked on Khiva's buildings, as seen here in the Kuhna Ark Fortress.

The fortress is originally from 12th century, but expanded 17th. A series of tunnels and staircases lead to studies and chambers, and of course, defensive walls.

A mosque, madrasah and very prominent minaret built in 1910 are named after Islam Khodja, the grand vizier of Muhammad Rahmi Bahadur II, ruler of Khiva from 1864-1910.

Stout walls and gates kept Khiva safe. Polvon-Darvoza (Strongman’s Gate) in the east conatins bazaars, and leads to an outdoor bazaar as well.

In a region with many of the world's greatest markets, Khiva's barely rates a mention, but is always worth a look.

Feeling madrasa-fatigue, I almost walked by, but inside I found a gallery of modern surrealist works. Surprise!

The wooden pillared Jamu mosque is reminiscent of old Arab style mosques, and with no windows, the simple, cool, dark hall contrasts drastically with extravagant affairs of the region.

Old Khivan currency in a museum. Many of the smaller madrasah have been repurposed for galleries, museums and traditional workshops.

The dome of the Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum, built 1810-25, for the Iranian poet and wrestler (?!) who died in 1326.