HALF WAY BETWEEN Bangkok and Ranong, sits sleepy Prachuap Khiri Khan, at the point where the Isthmus of Khra is at its narrowest. Besides Hua Hin, much of the 300kms between there and Bangkok is relatively untouristed. Farang are usually flying or training their way to Koh Samui or Phuket.
There are some lovely, traditional towns and some great national parks to be enjoyed.
If I had to live by a beach, think I'd choose Prachuap Khiri Khan.
Almost exclusively Thai, the tourist trade is large enough to bring services without overwhelming the place.
Prachuap is suitable for walking, and houses many wooden single or double storey buildings.
The army base protects the town against development, leaving it surrounded by nature.
Wat Khao Chong Krachok looms high above the town.
The steps, patrolled by tree rats (macaque monkeys) take some climbing, but the views are quite fine.
There are forest-fringed beaches both north and south of the town.
The other temples in town are of relatively minor interest.
But getting there takes you through some interesting parts of town.
Slightly further afield, Kui Buri National Park is probably the most reliable place in Thailand for elephant (up the back) and gaur (foreground) sightings.
The road out was worth it, but with Covid and Burma's perennial civil unrest, what would normally be a bustling border market was largely shuttered.
Bigger and brasher, Hua Hin began as the Royal Family's beach retreat. It does retain some old school Thai places.
I didn't particularly like it. Beach was ordinary, full of vendors.
The market was worth exploring. The food usually good, but yeah, nah.
We managed a birding side-trip to Baan Maka. The place was really nice and we did see a few good birds, but it was the wrong time of year.
But even in that little backwater, we found the Isaan Trifecta: gai yan, som tam and larp.
Closer again to Bangkok, Phetchaburi is another ungentrified mid-size Thai city, usually not on the farang radar.
Phra Nakhon Khiri is a walkable distance from the city's centre.
It became the summer palace of King Rama IV in 1860, hence the local name, Khao Wang (Palace Hill). Several old palace buildings and stupa sit on the various peaks.
Phetchaburi's history is much older than that. 12th century Wat Kamphaeng Laeng is the most southerly Khmer temple in Thailand.
Wat Yai Suwannaram, not far from the market area, is abour 400 years old.
Designated a Royal monastery, it sits on large, tranquil grounds, containing several halls.
Rabieng Rim Nam serves up really good Thai food on the river. The old wooden building creaks under foot, and boasts old photos of the town and the owners.
1 or 2 places rent motorcycles. There are quite a few spots worth visiting within an hour or two's drive.
Khao Nang Panthurat Forest Park had some easy hiking and good views. Nearby are beaches, some old Khmer temples, some twitching spots, etc.
Most caves I have visited made me think "dark, damp - what's the attraction?"
Tham Khao Luang just outside town was a rare one that was worth the effort.
Large- some would say cavernous - and with a number of seated and recliing Buddha.
The cynic in me says I can safely skip pretty much any cave that doesn't require specialist knowledge.
Another town which hasn't bent itself to the tourist whims is Ratchaburi. These old school Chinese-Thai hotels are disappearing in other places.
Another Khmer temple, Wat Mahathat Worawihan, is worth a squizz, but the neigbourhoods along the way are more of an attraction.
Old, wooden shops and residences, with established trees and gardens, are still common in Ratchaburi.
The newer section of Wat Mahathat Worawihan also a preserve from yesteryear.
We made a few day trips to places like Khao Ngu (Snake Mountain) Stone Park, and the Muang Khu Bua Khmer temples to the south, where we found the market a much bigger attraction.
The sleepy nature of the upper Gulf isn't for everyone. Let's hope it stays that way.