DESPITE BEING JUST TWO hours from Bangkok and Khorat, Khao Yai is one awesome park. It is one of the oldest National Parks in the country, and one of the largest. Campsites are big and spacious, served with food stalls.
More importantly, this really is a good place to see wildlife. I can’t wait to go back.

Thick forest in Khao Yai National Park are home to all manner of critters, from gibbons and elephants, to bears and squirrels, plus birds and plant to blow your mind.

Macaques are common in the park, and will open your tent to get at food....or toothpaste, metho, vitamins, coffee. Be warned!

It's not just the animals to look out for, with a variety of plants and poo to keep you entertained. (Elephant, if you need to know.)

While the bugs and birds are cool, dhole -asian wild dogs- are much more exciting. Follow the otaku on the main road in the late afternoon.

I'd smelled them. I'd heard them run off. I'd seen freshly minted poo, but it took me four days of trying to finally sight elephants.

I had expected to find them more easily, so treasured the hour or so before dusk. Yet in 2022, I saw them every day.

Trails are generally well marked near the centre of the park. There are longer trails which require guides.

I don't remember these trail markers from my first visit. This path was actually a lot harder than it looks here.

I was surprised how often I saw gibbons. Almost every walk I went on, they turned up. I had similar, or better success again in 2022.

Gibbon calls are amongst the sweetest forest sounds. Listen for them, then look out for branches moving.

Juvenile lar (white handed) gibbons are white, gaining their black fur as they mature. (or they other way round?)

Some hard core bird nerds I met where devasted to see I got the rufous woodpecker, not that I knew what it was.

A watchtower sits a few kms from the park HQ, overlooking this dam. Good spot to wait for elephants.

The river which runs behind the food outlets and along the main road might also turn up something interesting.

Emerging from the forests after a fruitless 4 hour search for elephants. Grab a packed lunch from the stalls!